A Painter's Journey: Warkworth to Alnmouth on the Northumberland Coastal Path
Walking to Alnmouth has always felt like a creative homecoming for me. It’s a place rich in memories—summers spent with my grandparents, running on the beach, and soaking up the village’s charm. But this time, as I set off on the six-mile (10 km) stretch from Warkworth, something felt different. Approaching Alnmouth from the south along the Northumberland Coastal Path gave me a fresh perspective—a new lens through which to appreciate the shores, shipwrecks, and the timeless beauty of this lesser-known stretch of coastline.
Let me take you along on this journey—a walk that is as much about rediscovering a place close to my heart as it is about soaking in the artistic inspiration that Northumberland has to offer.
Warkworth: A Village Steeped in History
Our journey begins in the historic town of Warkworth, a place with stories woven into its medieval streets and stone buildings.
A Glimpse into Warkworth’s Past
Warkworth, once called ‘Wercewode,’ traces its roots back to the Anglo-Saxon period in the 8th century. Tucked into a horseshoe bend of the River Coquet, this village was once a thriving harbor and market town in the Middle Ages. Even though time has softened its edges, Warkworth still feels like a place where history whispers through every stone.
Warkworth Castle: An Artistic Inspiration
The towering ruins of Warkworth Castle dominate the skyline, offering a striking subject for any artist. Built in the 12th century, the castle served as the favored home of the influential Percy family. Its walls, once a stronghold against invaders, now tell stories of noble life and centuries of change. I’ve always been drawn to historical structures like this, and Warkworth Castle is high on my “to paint” list. There's something about capturing the textures and shadows of these ancient ruins that really appeals to me.
Modern-Day Warkworth
Today, Warkworth has become a favorite spot for visitors, with its cozy pubs, charming tea rooms, and local craft shops. Before we set off on our walk, I highly recommend stopping at Bertram’s Café, tucked in the heart of the village. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy some local treats and soak up the relaxed atmosphere. And if you’re looking for a keepsake, there are plenty of delightful shops to explore!
Setting Off: From Warkworth to the Shores
We start our walk by crossing Warkworth’s medieval bridge, a striking piece of history in itself. It’s said to be the only surviving fortified bridge in England, once a critical defense against invaders. From here, we head eastward, where the stunning Warkworth Beach greets us with its wide, open sands and the call of seabirds in the air.
Shipwrecks Along the Shore
The beach here feels almost untouched, stretching out in quiet beauty. It’s the kind of place where you can pause, pull out a sketchbook, and capture the scene. Looking south, Coquet Island sits on the horizon, now an RSPB reserve, its lighthouse standing sentinel over the water.
Further south, hidden in the mudflats of Amble Harbour, are mysterious shipwrecks. Only visible at low tide, these forgotten vessels—rumored to be around 70-80 years old—lie abandoned, their wooden hulls slowly succumbing to time. There’s something hauntingly beautiful about them, their stories lost to history, yet still a part of the landscape.
Heading North: The Quiet Stretch to Alnmouth
As we continue north along the beach, the receding tide reveals more of the shoreline. It’s peaceful here—one of Northumberland’s quieter beaches—where you can lose yourself in the rhythm of the waves and the endless sky. We have the place mostly to ourselves, making it easy to feel at one with the landscape.
Alnmouth: A Village of Colour and Charm
Our walk brings us to Alnmouth, a picturesque village nestled at the mouth of the River Aln. It’s the perfect spot for a break, and we find a cozy place to picnic under Church Hill, where we can take in the view of the river winding its way to the sea.
Alnmouth’s Rich History
Alnmouth has a long and colorful history, dating back to 1150. By 1207, it was a bustling port, exporting wool and grain across Europe. Despite suffering from wars and fires, the village thrived as a trading hub. But in 1806, a Christmas Day storm dramatically altered the course of the River Aln, and the village’s once-thriving harbor fell into decline. Today, Alnmouth’s charm lies in its quiet beauty—a far cry from its busy past.
Painting Alnmouth’s Colourful Streets
As an artist, Alnmouth never fails to inspire. One of my favorite scenes to paint is the colourful row of houses on Lovaine Terrace. Perched above the river, these vibrant homes stand out against the natural landscape, their bright facades reflecting the joy I feel when I’m here. It’s a view that I’ve painted many times, and each time, I find something new to capture in the shifting light and colors.
A Hidden Gem: The Ferryman's Hut
Before we leave Alnmouth, we take a quick detour to visit the smallest museum in the UK—the Ferryman’s Hut. This tiny shelter, once used by the ferryman to row passengers across the River Aln, is now a quirky museum filled with trinkets and treasures from the village’s past. I’ve even featured it in one of my greetings card designs—its charming simplicity a reminder of the village’s rich history.
Wrapping Up the Day
We end our walk with a visit to the Old School Gallery, a favorite spot of mine for a cup of tea and a slice of cake, and a quick stop at the Aln Gift Shop, where I’m proud to have my artwork and cards on display. It feels like the perfect way to finish this journey—surrounded by the art, history, and beauty that make Northumberland so special.
Walking from Warkworth to Alnmouth is more than just a stroll along the beach—it’s a journey through time, and a chance to see the landscape through fresh eyes. Whether you’re an artist or simply a lover of nature and history, this walk is sure to inspire you, just as it continues to inspire me.
Notes:
- Looking for a memento of this walk then please visit my art gallery in Cullercoats, Tyne and Wear or shop online at www.joannewishart.co.uk
- If you'd like to watch a video of this walk please visit my YouTube channel & remember to like and subscribe.
- Thinking of walking the coastal path read the official guide https://www.northumberlandcoastpath.org/
